A800X ProBuild Tips

    

Say goodbye to moving servos!

Every servo and servo mount these days is secured by screws only in the centre of the chassis. If your car's servo mount has locating lugs on the bottom, then you don't need to worry! 

The Awesomatix A800X servo mount and direct mount servo (AS-701L) have 3 screws but no locating lugs. Often, if we just screw together as per the manual, the shiny surfaces of the servo mount/servo and chassis will not create a strong joint. A small shunt, regardless of how tight your screws are will pivot the mount, throwing out your trim and endpoints during a race.

To solve this, we can score the bottom of the servo or mount with a hobby knife in a cross hatch pattern. These lines will create small burs and edges which will bite down into your alloy or carbon chassis and leave you with a much sturdier servo. This does not effect the performance of the car in any way, it will only make your steering alignment more consistent and durable! This is particularly helpful if you are running on small boarded tracks where the racing line is 1cm from the board!

 

A800X PRO Build Tips

  1. When you are assembling the C04M1 arms onto the P03 Pivot balls, ensure there is no binding once you install the P07 clip. Sometimes the P07 clip can compress It all, and cause the ball to bind causing your C04M1/0.5 arm to bind. If the P03 is tight on the ball, try to squeeze P03 lightly with pliers. If the arm is causing P03 to bind up on the ball, use a knife or large drill bit to increase the size of the chamfer on the bottom of the arm. Keep doing this until the arm drops perfectly under its own weight with both P07 clips installed on the arm. P03 is most common to bind on AM21-0.5S, as the steel ball's tolerenaces are slightly tighter than the alloy AT21. Note: Dropping the arm with the hub attached doesn’t count, you want them to drop under their own light weight.
  2. If you are using the AT21-0.5S in the wide position on the FF for arm sweep, you will need to grind some material off the P12X Sway bar holders. The sweep on the arm will push the carbon back into the sway bar holder and cause it to bind. Remove the P12X off the chassis to do this.
  3. The P13-4 Ball cups can sometimes be a little tight on the ST24 balls. If this is the case, you can repeatedly pop them on and off and they will free up. You can also use pliers to lightly squeeze them, this often works! This is really not such a bad thing, as you are custom fitting your cups to their balls so there is absolutely minimal slop! Once they are fitted on the car as a camber link (along with P01/P02 installed), ensure the “camber link” is dropping free on the ball sunder its own weight.
  4. P02 can sometimes be tight on ST03 ball. If this is the case, repeatedly pop as per previous instruction. These will free up with driving, but it’s better to get them custom fitted straight away! When the camber links are connected they should drop perfectly free with the arms.
  5. Purchase and install AT15 Crush washers in the hubs – these will increase the life of your bearings and also reduce slop in your car. These are great!
  6. When assembling your anti-roll bars, check each bar on glass to ensure the two tips are touching the glass and that the wire is flat. If it isn’t lightly bend it until it becomes straight. You want the two tips of the sway bar touching the glass. Install the sway bar inside the P12X mounts without the P05 installed. You want to make sure the sway bar drops free without these attached. Use a knife or sand paper to lightly sand the plastic mould line on the P05, this ensures that when it’s popped into P04 that it won’t bind! With droop set, ensure they are lifting up the same amount each side. If they aren’t, either something is binding or your bar is not flat – if everything is correct, these will be in tweak. Don’t use the up-stop screws in P12X, they are unnecessary in my opinion.
  7. Ensure your SPR01/SPR01S leaf springs are flat. Sometimes they can be ever so slightly bent, it’s really easy to straighten them up, put them on flat glass and gently bend them so they are straight! Also check the ends of your springs are bent to 90deg. You can check this with any right angle. If you intend on bending them to alter the progressiveness of the spring, then ensure they are done equally!
  8. With everything except dampers connected, ensure the suspension drops freely with no binding, ensure your sway bars are lifting the same amount, and you’re set! Install dampers and follow my suspension tweak guide and you will be ready to go.
  9. For video tutorials on diff, damper builds and suspension setup, check the support page on my website here

 

 

 

 

 

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